I just drove my 30 year-old diesel, manual Chrysler Voyager 1,500 miles over the span of a few days, and while on the French Autoroutes, German Autobahn and British Motorway, I had plenty of time to reflect on what I love and what I loathe about this Graz, Austria-built minivan. Yesterday, while finishing the final leg of my trek back to Germany late at night, I was reminded of one thing about old cars that drives me nuts, and I bet I’m not the only one who feels this way.
Obviously, crash safety is a big deal when we’re discussing the shortcomings of old cars, but that’s not really something that’s palpable when you’re driving a car. What about ride quality? Hasn’t that come a long way lately? Sure, but also, there are plenty of cars from 50 years ago that rode like Cadillacs. For example: Cadillacs.
Handling? Well, I think if we’re talking about sports cars and not cruisers, I’m sure old-car handling could bother some folks. Same thing with braking performance, though plenty of cars from the 1990s could stop on a dime.
I think tech features could be a bother. Not having Bluetooth to talk with someone while driving is a bit of a bummer, and for lots of people, lack of heated seats could stand out as a major downside of driving an “oldtimer,” as they call them here in Germany.
But none of that bothers me. I’m writing this article to complaint a bit about a feature that pretty much every single one of my friends agrees is a huge drawback of old cars: the headlights.
Seriously, get behind the wheel of a classic car, and, if it’s equipped with power discs, I bet it stops well enough. I bet the wipers work great. I bet the ride is probably fine. I bet, for a cruiser, it handles well enough. I bet the seats are comfy. I bet it could possibly be efficient enough, especially if it’s a lightweight, fuel-injected 1990s car or a diesel like my van. I bet the visibility is great thanks to slender pillars. And while, sure, if you have an old automatic, that’s a huge pain compared to modern eight-speeds and 10-speeds and the like, I bet the number one drawback that will bother you more than any other will be the poor nighttime visibility. Especially if your car is from the 1990s.
Headlights have come so far in the least 20 years, with HIDs becoming more prominent in the early 2000s, and LEDs really pushing headlight technology to where it is today. In more recent years, automakers have had more incentive to improve headlights thanks to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety.
Starting in 2016, it began its headlight evaluation. Here’s The Insurance-funded Institute’s reasoning for the new testing:
About half of all fatal crashes in the U.S. occur in the dark, and more than a quarter occur on unlit roads. Headlights have an obvious role to play in preventing nighttime crashes, but not all headlights perform their job equally. Differences in bulb type, headlight technology and even something as basic as how the lights are aimed all affect the amount of useful light supplied.
Headlight technology has been developing rapidly in recent years. LED and high-intensity discharge (HID) lamps have begun to replace the traditional halogen ones. Many automakers offer curve-adaptive headlights, which respond to steering and swivel according to the direction of travel. Many also offer high-beam assist, a feature that can increase the use of high beams by automatically switching between high beams and low beams based on the presence of other vehicles.
At the same time, government regulations about headlights don’t guarantee consistency when it comes to the amount of illumination they provide in actual on-road use. This has resulted in large variation in headlight performance. Many vehicles sold today have inadequate headlights, despite the recent strides in lighting technology.
And here’s how IIHS actually conducts its evaluations, which measure light intensity when going straight or around curves:
IIHS engineers measure the reach of a vehicle’s headlights as the vehicle travels straight and on curves. Sensors on the track measure how far from the vehicle the light extends with an intensity of at least 5 lux. A lux is a unit of illuminance, or the amount of light falling on a surface. For comparison, a full moon on a cloudless night illuminates the ground below to about 1 lux.
Both low beams and high beams are measured on five approaches,
- Straightaway
- Gradual left curve (800-foot radius)
- Gradual right curve (800-foot radius)
- Sharp left curve (500-foot radius)
- Sharp right curve (500-foot radius)
On each approach, visibility measurements are taken on the right edge of the roadway. On the curves, measurements also are taken on the left edge of the travel lane. On the straightaway, the second measurement is taken at a point corresponding to the left edge of a two-lane road. This allows the engineers to gauge the illumination on both the right and left side of a straightaway, which are typically quite different. With most headlights, there is a steep drop-off in light on the left side of a straight road in order to prevent glare to oncoming vehicles.
Glare for oncoming vehicles is also measured from low beams in each scenario. Engineers record the percentage by which it exceeds a set threshold.
IIHS describes its scoring methodology, stating:
IIHS engineers compare the results of the testing with a hypothetical ideal headlight system. Using a system of demerits, they apply the visibility and glare measurements to determine the rating.
In this system, the low beams are weighted more heavily than the high beams because they are used more often. The readings on the straightaway are weighted more heavily than those on the curves because crashes are more common on straight sections of road.
A vehicle with no demerits doesn’t exceed the glare threshold on any approach and provides illumination to at least 5 lux over the distances shown in the graphic [above]. Longer visibility distances are required on the straightaway compared with the curves because vehicles tend to travel at higher speeds while going straight. Similarly, greater visibility is required on gradual curves compared with sharp curves.
My van would absolutely fail this testing. Just look at these little candles:
Honestly, the late 1980s and early 1990s really represented the start of headlight crapification. The plastic lenses tended to yellow in a way that sealed-beam lights didn’t, and they’d also tended to allow water to fog up the inside of the lens. The result, as shown in the photo on the right above, was extremely poor illumination. Honestly, I had to drive on my high beams to see comfortably down the road. It also doesn’t help that a plastic tab cracked, and the light is no longer aimed properly:
I tried doing a comparison between my van and my dad’s 2015 BMW 320i, which comes equipped with LED projector-beam headlights. Should I have waited until nighttime? Sure, but this blog can’t wait:
As you can see, the BMW on the right of the first image above is throwing a lot more light onto that garage door, while the van? Well, it’s sending a few little splotches of orange light onto that surface.
In truth, my van’s headlights are maybe the worst ones I’ve ever used. My Jeep Cherokee XJ’s sealed-beam units weren’t much better, but my brother’s 1966 Mustang’s sealed beams were. They’re actually not too bad, but still nowhere even remotely close to as bright as my BMW i3’s headlights, which are similar to my dad’s 320i’s lights shown above.
If only there were an easy and clean way to retrofit these machines with brighter lights that still projected the right pattern down the road. I’ve heard of some folks trying different LED retrofits with success, but it seems like results are mixed.
I seem to recall reading something about halogen and/or incandescent bulbs loosing about 7% of their brightness each year. The older bulbs are basically consumable/wear items, like oil or wipers, but with a much longer replacement timeline. Even if they haven’t burned out, you should replace them (full set) every four or five years.
I think design even on older halogen headlights design makes a big difference. I’ve had halogen sealed beam headlight cars that were solid, and capsule style with decent lights, and I’ve also experienced halogen headlight that were trash. In my experience American and Japanese car makers seem to be the worst about this. I’ve had two older Mazdas, an ’89 626 and a ’04 3 and both had terrible headlights. My parents had a couple of 1st gen Dodge Durangos and both had horrible headlights. My dad had a succession of GM pickups that illustrated this, his ’02 Silverado had great halogen headlights, he replaced it with an ’05 GMC Denali which had one of GM’s early stabs at HID headlights and they were actually worse than the halogens in his chevy due to have a poor uneven lighting pattern that was not very even. I’ve had 2 ’80s BMWS with sealed beams and were better than nearly all of the above-same with the ’00 323i I used to have which was a lower spec car with halogen bulbs.
I think you also have to take into account that an older higher mileage car is likely to have a sandblasted windshield which will make night time visibility even worse.
underrated problem-having experienced this with a few older cars this makes a huge difference at night, or god help you even worse driving towards a sunset.
There is nothing worse in this world than driving a nice dark country road, when a modern car with LEDS pops up over the crest of a hill and blinds you with 8 billion lumens of blue. Yes I know having properly aimed headlights helps, YES I know people who retrofit LED’s into fixtures that weren’t designed for them makes the problem even worse, but the fact remains that modern headlights are too bright for oncoming traffic. You get fairly used to it on a highway or heavily trafficked street, but out in the sticks its a real problem.
The only good thing about older headlights is affordability. Modern LEDs are ridiculously expensive to replace — and they do go out more often than you’d think. Ask any LR Defender owner who is reaching the end of the warranty period how they’re feeling about replacing another $5,000 headlight on their own dime…
I was just thinking the same thing. We need a return to a system where you can change the bulb for $10 – and not have to worry that touching said bulb with your fingers while changing it will cause it to blow again shortly. Now, even if you can change the bulb individually, you might have to spend a couple of hours taking the car apart to get to it. Otherwise it’s changing a $500+ headlight assembly because some part of it not even related to the headlights cause it to fail inspection (my boss’s DRLs failed in his Subaru.)
I think the reflectors in the light assembly are probably burntled ouy so if you replace or restore them the headlights might be much better.
I’ll definitely stan for TheRetrofitSource. I bought an HID kit for my 04 Saab years ago: it had burnt out Hella (halogen) projectors and was unsafe to drive. After a 3M headlight restore and the EVO projectors, it had way better light output than the trick adaptive HIDs on our Merc wagon. For $300 or so, it was the best money I’ve spent on a car upgrade.
I’ve faced similar issues with a number of my old vehicles. My Dart, with its sealed beams, was ok, but I honestly drove with the high beams on most of the time. When I got both of my GMT400s, the first thing I realized with both trucks is that the light output on both was terrible. The K1500 had the “deluxe” grille which meant the plastic headlight lenses were all foggy and not producing much light. I bought a polishing kit, and between that and the LED retrofit I added, the headlights are now bright enough I rarely have to use the high beams. My K2500 had sealed beams, one of which was burned out completely. Out of curiosity, I replaced them with LEDs as well. Not thrilled the covers are plastic instead of glass, but they illuminate everything extremely well.
Some people have better rods and some people have better cones so it’s all rather subjective. Just keep that in mind when judging others comments.
And some people have fucked up cones and see blues and greens differently. Like my wife, with whom I’ve had countless arguments regarding such. 😀
I take this as a joke, but I’m a nerd, so: women tend to have better cones than men and (I believe) are the only ones to have tetrachromacy due to the genes being on the X chromosome, which they get a pair of.
You have earned an: Indeed!
Replace your lens with a UV transparent one and you might be able to extend that range:
The photoreceptor cells of the retina are sensitive to near ultraviolet light, and people lacking a lens (a condition known as aphakia) see near ultraviolet light (down to 300 nm) as whitish blue, or for some wavelengths, whitish violet, probably because all three types of cones are roughly equally sensitive to ultraviolet light (with blue cone cells slightly more sensitive).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrachromacy
(Warning: May result in corneal sunburns.)
You better have some good sunglasses! None of those Captain Morgan promotional giveaways. As curious as I am about what tetrachromacy would really be like, we’re pretty lucky as it is to be rare mammals with trichromacy, so I’m fine with the colors we see (those of us without color blindness). Wouldn’t mind better long range and not needing reading glasses, though.
Oh I’m pretty sure those Captain Morgan specials would do a good enough job. Even clear eyeglasses block a large amount of <400 nm UV.
I have a Jeep JK Wrangler in my fleet..about 2012. The single thing that infuriates me is the candle-light illumination. Horrible.
Same. I posted about mine earlier. I highly recommend getting H4 glass housings, the conversion kit, and upgraded Sylvania bulbs.
The LED lights I tested on my first nice modern car blew me away. That being said, my 97 Toyota lights are better than my 2008 Lexus. The trouble with modern cars between the glass housing and LED element era is that the plastic housings combined with traditional filament bulbs created serious oxidization problems which look bad and make light output pathetic.
I think lighting peaked with HIDs. I do not consider LED headlights to be superior. A set of Morimoto Minis and a nice pair of aftermarket HID bulbs, you have the best lighting you can ask for. you already have to disassemble headlights to install the projectors, so you can refinish the insides of the lenses for optimal clarity while you are there.
I think it depends of wether they are reflector or projector LEDs, being the latter much superior. Maybe HID have the same luminance but way better reliability.
I agree, but with qualifications… When HID’s first came out and your only choice was either the Sylvania projector or reflector bulbs nearly every HID headlight was basically amazing. By the time manufacturers figured out how to cut costs they seriously went down in quality starting in the early 2000’s by Lexus and basically covering everybody else by about 2010 unless you selected the not-sucky-headlight option which only is available on the too-expensive trim package.
I dunno man. I mean, my sealed beams suck but even in a modern car I feel like generally the issue is usually not lack of light but being blinded by the poorly aimed portable suns that other drivers are rolling with (with the “upgrades” being the worst). I don’t really need to do an LED swap because unless I’m on an isolated country road at full night someone else is lighting up the place for me already, often times with an unbroken beam from a tailgating truck going right over my car, it’s like having my own set of rooftop Hellas for free.
I’m firmly in the retrofit LED camp, with the explicit caveat that the “bulbs” be of high quality, and as geometrical identical (location wise) to the gas-bulb original part as possible. Cheap, poorly-made, slap dash units commonly found online do not generally meet those criteria, giving the retrofit a bad reputation.
I’ve put LED headlamps (and other bulbs, too, especially turn signals and brake lights, because brighter – but not too bright – and faster-illuminating is better) in my last 4 vehicles, and the technology is reliable, good units with clear lenses don’t cause glare, and the fill and appearance is superior (to halogen at least; I don’t have any vehicles that came with Xenon headlamps).
My least favorite headlights have got to be the projectors in my 2006 Saab 9-5, they’re easily worse than any other modern car and likely worse than most other older, cheaper cars too. I’ve had a couple of 2nd gen Subaru Legacies and those are pretty woeful in the headlight department, but nothing compared to the poor Saab.
I hate the modern bright headlights. I often can’t tell if an oncoming vehicle has its high beams on or not, because the low beams are too damn bright. Did anyone consider that as more drivers get used to using really bright lights, then they have trouble seeing less bright lights? This could lead to more accidents, not fewer.. At some point every car, street, and parking lot will need to have ultra bight lights at night. We’re going in the wrong direction. Get off my lawn too.
I’ve seen other people say this, and: I don’t get it.
Granted, I have never done much nighttime driving in a car new enough to have LEDs, so maybe I just don’t know what I’m missing out on. But maybe my lack of comparison lets me be more objective:
90s cars have completely adequate headlights. Sealed beams, if aimed, work great. Plastic housings suck and get cloudy, but that’s not actually very difficult to solve. I have never driven a car that I felt had insufficient lighting, and I have driven a LOT of 90s and older cars. I mean, if it was good enough 30 years ago, it’s good enough now. Nighttime didn’t get darker since the 90s.
And if you really want brighter lighting, decent quality LED replacement bulbs, that maintain a proper light pattern, have gotten quite cheap in the last few years.
Just drive a modern car at night for a few days and you’ll see.
Sure 90’s headlights are good enough to get the job done, but modern LED’s are so freaking nice at night.
Especially if you’re driving somewhere rural/remote with no street lights and potential animals/obstacles. Like with 90’s headlights at 50-60MPH on a rural road, sure you can see just far enough to probably brake in time if you come up on a deer or some other obstacle in the road if you’re paying close attention at the moment it enters the lit area and you slam the brakes. But with LED’s you’re going to see it so much earlier that you won’t need to be watching like a hawk ready to slam on your brakes.
Yeah. My wife has a 2016 CX-5 Grand Touring with the LED headlights and man, it can illuminate what seems to be about a mile ahead of us at night on a rural road. It’s nice for when I’m afraid of errant deer crossings.
Actually it got brighter! and of course in a very bad way
Regular old reflector housings can be OK-ish, I used to put cibie or hella e-code housings and decent bulbs in everything I had with sealed beams, but old composite type headlights are just awful. Even worse with HID or LED retrofits, blinds everyone else and the driver still can’t see shit.
There are a plethora of options to upgrade if you have the sealed type headlights like what’s in an XJ. I dropped a set I found on Amazon into my 2000 XJ and it now has headlights just as good as any of my modern vehicles. I paid about 80 bucks for the set.
https://a.co/d/g0GWJz4
I totally agree that headlamps have improved. Dare I say that when I got my 540i6, the difference with the stock HIDs (GOOD ones, not aftermarket) vs. previous cars was night and day? But when they are made so that you don’t out-drive the lights at 155 mph….
My 300ZX had horrid lighting. Were I to get another, I would put LED replacements in immediately.
My current Hyundai’s lights are bixenons, and they are passable. I would like them to be better, but to my knowledge, no options exist.
When I drive a night now, long for the days when the light of oncoming traffic was not a pair of welding arcs burning through my retinas, making me temporarily blind for 30 seconds after the car passed.
But seriously, I have to believe that the headlight output on the van is not comparable to when the van was new. That dimness looks to me as though there is low current flowing. In vehicles that old, it’s important to check the grounds and all ground connections for corrosion. I recently refreshed the headlight wiring on my 1988 XJ Wagoneer and found that almost every ground connection was badly corroded and the wires needed to be trimmed back. Aside from refreshing the grounds, I wired in new relays that feed directly off the battery and holy cow – my headlights went from looking like DT’s to looking like my aforementioned welding arcs.
Old car wiring is a frustrating bit of maintenance but it pays dividends!
this is the answer
A lot of it isn’t that they are from the 90’s, it is that they are 30 years old. The reflectors in there just aren’t reflecting like they used to. The other problem is that it is a Chrysler from the 90’s which were known for having some of the worst headlights at the time.
Yes today’s HID, LED and projector headlights are improvements but if you had an actual new OE set, or some NOS units that were stored in a sealed climate controlled environment you would have much better light than what you have now.
There is a reason that my pickup and van are XL models and that was because at least in that era they came with Sealed Beams which give you a new reflector and glass lens when you replace them.
Every car I’ve had with sealed beams were upgraded to Hella, Marchal or Cibiè H4 lights. Massive improvement in every case.
Yep, my 2015 Jeep Wrangler came with terrible headlights. LEDs made it so much better!
And that’s why I have Dapper Lighting LED Sevens in my ’81 Camaro.
I went with black buckets to fit the theme of the car, but chose the OE-style glass so they’re not obviously apparent…and the light output is absolutely beautiful.
Are they cheap? No. But you certainly get what you pay for, as they’re wonderfully built.
They also make ones that look even more-OE, as well as solutions for 5.75″ rounds, as well as 4×6 and 5x7s. But obviously these only really work for cars that had sealed beams.
These are what I bought: https://www.dapperlighting.com/collections/7-1/products/led7-b-oe-d
How well does the extra lighting compensate?
Best old-school headlights I ever used were on a 1980 Toyota Corolla sedan, the four round sealed-beams setup. Selecting high beams normally shut the low beams off but since the stalk sprung back to the same position for both, holding it “out” lit all four. I suppose the logic was that the alternator and battery were game for that as long as your left hand was when the car was new but it was a ~15yo rustbucket when I had it so I only dared for a couple seconds.
Also, if DT and Beau (and hopefully Torch) ever do Goodwood again they should totally try baller-parking the minivan. Call it a fundraiser for military kids – it’s already purple, paint some dandelions on it and it’s good to go, especially if Beau gets the ball rolling with a donation either to an existing legit nonprofit or directly to MWR.
I’ve driven other old cars that allowed that (I wish I paid more attention to which ones). It was a flash feature, but I don’t know if it was a standard, up to the manufacturer, some quirk of the electrical system design, or what.
My ’83 BMW 533i leaves the lows lit when you turn on the highs, maybe just a german thing, iirc my other ’80s bmw did this too. Very solid light output for a 41 year old car-especially if I ever got off my butt and truly aimed them properly.