I’m flying to the middle of nowhere, Australia — pretty much right now — to fix a 1969 Chrysler Valiant Ute that a reader I’ve never met bought on my behalf for $900. It’s a total of about 20 hours flying time from Detroit to Sydney, then some time on a bus to central station, then another seven-ish hours to the town nearest my Ute: Dubbo. Because I’ll have to carry my luggage around during the trek, and because I’m too cheap to pay a bunch for luggage, I’ve limited myself to just a single bag of tools to accompany my check-in of car parts. Here are the tools I strategically chose for this small “bugout bag” and why I think they’ll suffice for the vast majority of my wrenching needs.
As perhaps some of you are aware, I spend a lot of my time in junkyards. I’d say I visit a ‘yard, on average, twice a week. Has it contributed to a rather suboptimal social life? You could make that argument; but you can’t make the argument that I don’t score smokin’ hot deals on car parts. Because I do. Anyway, this junkyard-wrenching has forced me to have a “bugout bag” ready — a collection of only the most essential tools that can accomplish the vast majority of the wrenching I need to do, but that doesn’t weigh so much that I’ll pull a muscle on my way from my truck to the junkyard wheelbarrow.
After years of laying on my back at a salvage yard regretting having forgotten my shears or my pry bar or my cheater bar, I’ve refined my bugout bag to the point where I can snag whichever part I need without having to head back home for tools. So with that in mind, here’s a look at what I’m going to try to get through Australian customs. These are my bare essentials:
View this post on Instagram
We’ll first start with a can of PB Blaster, or “Cleveland’s Finest” as I like to call it. Whether it’s more of a placebo than an actual penetrating lubricant that makes it easier to loosen bolts, I don’t really know, but I will say that I love the stuff. Especially in the rust-filled ‘yards of Michigan, a can of “Jesus Juice” is something I can’t leave at home; given the state of my Utes, I bet I’ll have to use at least some of this (though I bet the rust in Australia, as bad as it looks, is mostly just superficial compared to Michigan rot).
Next up is a set of shears. These can do everything a set of wire-snippers can, but they can also slice things like brake hoses, brake lines, radiator hoses, and thin sheetmetal. The versatility of shears should never be doubted.
Possibly the second most important tool in a wrencher’s tool set, behind a good flathead screwdriver, is a set of swivel-head ratcheting wrenches. How I wrenched for nearly a decade without these is beyond me. There are so many occasions where a socket just won’t fit, and a standard wrench would take 500 years as you twist, remove, rotate, install, twist, remove, rotate, install, twist, etc. The swivel-head ratcheting wrench takes care of this; it’s an amazing contraption.
A tool that I probably could have just bought in Australia, but that I bring with me anytime I’m fixing something (I don’t bring this to the junkyard) is a roll of friction tape. Electrical tape is crucial when fixing an old car, but the problem is that it’s adhesive-based, and therefore doesn’t really work to fix a leak. Friction tape adheres to itself; stretch it tight and wrap it around itself, and it forms a great waterproof bond.
Speaking of electrical tape, I always bring a set of wire strippers/crimpers when I’m mending something. I’ll snag some splice connectors when I’m in Oz, but something tells me this tool is going to see some heavy use as I try to get this ute up and running:
I could have bought these in Australia, but they’re lightweight and low-volume, plus extremely important: Zipties:
An underrated tool in any wrenching aresnal is the headlamp. Don’t waste your time with a flashlight, as you have to give up 50 percent of your hands to wield one. Headlamps are the answer:
Sometimes you have to service brakes, and that means bleeding. The cheapest and easiest way to do this is to have a friend step on the pedal while you — with nothing but a hose and wrench (and maybe an old coke bottle to catch the fluid) manipulate the bleeder screw at the caliper (or in my case, wheel cylinder). But when there’s no friend there to help, look no further than the Bleed-O-Matic bleeder kit. It’s small, cheap, and I use it often:
Sometimes you need to grip things really tightly and twist them or bend them. If you break a screw, for example, you might want to grab what’s left of the shank and rotate it out. There’s really only one tool for that job, and it’s the vice grip. I bring a wide one and a narrow one everywhere I go:
Also important are channel locks. I use them to get big spring clamps off, and sometimes to yank stubborn radiator hoses off of radiators/thermostat housings:
Line wrenches. Flare nut wrenches. Whatever you like to call them, these five-sided wrenches are must-haves for brake lines and fuel lines. They’re not all made the same either; especially for the smaller 3/8 and 7/16 fittings, you must make sure you have a high-quality one that fits tightly around the nut, otherwise you’ll strip it. Ask me how I know.
Speaking of brakes, I brought a drum brake tool, because using a set of pliers to compress the springs that hold the brake shoes against the backing plate is a pain in the ass. I don’t have time to waste, so I brought the right tool for the job.
I always have an assortment of extensions read to go, and I always make sure to have adapters, should I not have the right ratchet on-hand. Plus, I bring the standard spark plug socket-sizes:
Magnets have saved my ass far too many times for me to leave mine at home. If you drop a little bolt into a tight abyss, how else will you retrieve it?
I always bring a few ratchets with me. My current favorite is my 3/8-drive-1/4-drive combination ratchet from Harbor Freight. Not only does it allow me to use either 1/4 or 3/8-drive sockets, but it also has an extendable handle built in for extra leverage. I also ended up bringing a spare SK 3/8-drive ratchet because it’s just such a good tool. I could have left it at home, but ratchets are usually the most-used tools in any car project, and having a high-quality one on hand is just nice. I also brought a half-inch drive ratchet:
To go along with my ratchets, I always have along for the ride the tail end of a turkey baster. It’s thin sheetmetal, so it’s light, but its moment of inertia about its bending axis is large, so it does a great job as a cheater bar for extra leverage.
I also bring an adjustable wrench in case I don’t have the right socket on hand. Yes, they’re known to round bolts, but they’re incredibly versatile:
I brought my favorite screwdrivers. I could have bought some in Australia, but these — specifically “Big Orange,” which has helped me through some seriously arduous projects — are my favorites. Also, a tiny pick: Far more important than you’d think. Sometimes you have to manipulate something small, and a pick is the only thing that will do. The item shown below with a black handle is a trim removal tool; this is the ultimate solution to the problem of breaking plastic parts, though I don’t know if any of my utes even have any trim left:
I brought a small bag of 1/4-inch drive sockets and an extra small ratchet. Tiny sockets are important and easily misplaced, so having a set with me is just a smart move.
I also have a bunch of torx and allen wrenches with me in a small bag, along with Irwin bolt extractors for when I round a bolt on a rusty ute:
Pry bars fall on the other side of the spectrum as the tiny pick I mentioned before. It’s not about manipulating something delicate, it’s about forcing something to yield to your will through sheer force-multiplication:
I always have some gasket maker on me, should I have a leak somewhere:
And of course, I have in my bag a few spare English wrenches, since Valiants Utes are not held together with metric fasteners:
In addition, I snagged a few of the most popular 1/2-inch drive English sockets:
You’ll notice a few things missing (Of course, big things like welders I’ll have to borrow from my host, Laurence). There’s no hammer and no socket set. These I’ll buy once I’m in Australia, as the hammer is a cheap and ubiquitous tool that’s too heavy to justify hauling across the world. The socket set is large and also ubiquitous; I should have no issue picking up a 3/8-drive set in Oz. I’d also like to snag a gasket scraper (the ones that use replaceable razors are best), a roll of electrical tape, some wires, maybe some epoxy (JB weld), and a few other odds and ends, but I’ll snag all of that when I’m there.
Otherwise I think this 35 pound bugout bag of mine will set me up for damn-near anything my ute will throw my way.
“Sometimes you have to service brakes, and that means bleeding.”
spoken like a true artist
A pick tool, one with a good handle, that is one you don’t think you need until you do.
I had a set that was a repurposed dental kit, so it was two sided AKA had business ends on both ends, and it cut the shit out of my hands in a moment of impatience.
This was during a two week expedition to fish an ignition coil boot out of a BMW engine block.
What are the odds this bag makes it to OZ? Is there a pool?
I like that Dave is using public transport to get to Dubvegas to engage in his wrenching adventure – that is going to be an adventure in itself. the denizens of Dubbo would take exception to the description of being ‘the middle of nowhere’ , but you can certainly see it from there. As a resident of the region, I hope he packed his rubber boots, as after years of drought, the mud around the wrecking yards is epic at the moment with all the recent rain.
Nice setup, I might do some things differently but what works for me wouldn’t necessarily work for you! For instance I never particularly cared for swivel head ratchet wrenches, but if they work for you I can’t argue. I’ll echo others here and say spend 5 minutes when your putting things away and wipe your tools down, they’ll last longer and I find it’s just more pleasant to start a project with clean stuff. Choosing just the right selection of tools is always a crapshoot, and there’s always going to be something else you need. Most of my mobile wrenching adventures these days involve driving my 98 Ram which has a truck box, so I’m a bit spoiled now with a plentiful selection of tools but still find myself having on occation to run out for something else. Fortunately, despite its 350K miles most of that wrenching is on other vehicles and my trailer, hardly ever on the truck itself.
I bought a really nice set of milwaukee screwdrivers earlier this year… they were not insanely expensive, but they are sturdy as hell and I haven’t broken any of them yet. It was either an 8 or 10 piece kit with stubby phillip and flat as well as the ridiculously long and large phillip and flat too. There are a couple of square drivers for squares like myself. Also, invaluable is my dewalt 9AH flexvolt battery – came with my chainsaw, but works great on my dewalt drill and dewalt impact driver. Of course, you have to be careful when it comes to toting Li-ion batteries on planes – they are heavy and prone to catastrophic fires – which are not what you want to deal with in the air – and may also be subject to various regulations too for transport.
White zip ties? Everybody know that black ones are better\stronger.
Too bad you weren’t going somewhere closer and fixing something cool.
That’s a really nice selection of tools, almost exactly what I myself would choose for a portable mechanic’s kit. The only things I would do differently is I’d replace all the screwdrivers except the big flathead with a nice ratcheting multi-bit screwdriver, and I’d replace both the channel locks and adjustable wrench with Knipex Cobra water-pump pliers, in two sizes of your choice.
Knipex do the same job as standard channel locks while being much nicer to work with, as they have more grooves, closer together, and they lock in the groove you set them to. They also do a better job than an adjustable wrench at turning nuts and bolts, often good enough that it’s not worth going and getting the actual correct wrench. Used correctly, they do not slip and round off bolts. They’re a bit on the pricey side, but very well made. They’re nice to work with, do a good job, and are durable enough that you’re only gonna buy them once.
Oh, and I would bring my multimeter. You can get one anywhere, but they’re not going to be as nice as my Fluke 375FC. I would probably also switch that stripper/crimper out for a proper ratcheting stripper and my heavy-duty stripper/cutter tool. Crimping just works so much better with the right tool.
Dude, when you landing? The train to Central from Sydney Airport is pretty easy, but if I am free, I will gladly give you a lift. Moved to Sydney from New Mexico almost 4 years ago and loving it, but missing my 56 Chrysler Town & Country Wagon, and my 52 International Harvester L-110. Let me know if I can be any help.
I kinda expected it to be just the holy trinity of car fixes: WD40, duck tape, zip ties.
I’ve used the heck out of drum brake pliers, but I got no idea how the tool David brought works. Looks good for the hold-down discs for the shoes and maybe for spinning the adjuster?
For the half turn nut/trainer/washer thing that that compresses the spring that holds the brake shoe by the pin/nail to the backing plate. Hope that makes sense. Some brake pliers have one on the handle.
You need to replace the adjustable wrench with some Stanley Maxgrips…no more rounded nuts.
https://www.stanleytools.com/product/85-610/10-maxgriptm-locking-adjustable-wrench
The love child of Vice grips and an adjustable wrench 🙂
While the Channellock brand is quite good, widely available, & usually surprisingly reasonably priced it might be worthwhile looking into Knipex Cobra pliers, especially the larger sizes, as they grip pretty tenaciously, have a nice push button with definite detentions, and don’t seem to wear out. Years ago I lost my old vice grips but I found that if I apply more pressure to the top handle these Knipex Cobras are almost as good as vice grips (yeah, I’m still looking for those damn vice grips) & are more compact, a plus when packing a bag or box of limited size. They’re not as widely available as Channellock but they’re out there; it might be that they’re more readily available down under. Good luck! You do have a heck of a track record with resurrecting vehicles that’d pretty much already crossed the river Styx, that’s for sure.
I used to like PB Blaster… then I tried Kroil. Given the stuff you work on, you should do yourself a favor and read this test:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t7128-penetrating-oil-comparison-test
Penetrating oil ……….. Average load to break free
None …………………………516 pounds
WD-40 …………………….. 238 pounds
PB Blaster …………………214 pounds
Liquid Wrench …………… 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ………………….106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix………… 53 pounds
Here’s what Project Farm had to say: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs
My beloved Liquid Wrench won this one.
Kroil > Liquid Wrench > Everything else
Believe DT breaks out the Kroil when necessary.
So much potential material here. I need to hear how it went through security.
David, it seems even your tools have fallen victim to your.. opposite of the Midas touch.
Just wipe em down with whatever oily/greasy rag you are using for the repair before you put them away.
If you live in a high humidity climate tossing a few charcoal briquettes in each tool bag helps keep the rust monster away.
Tools are there to help you. Like employees or coworkers, the more poorly you treat them the less likely they are to continue helping you in the long run.
Yeah, spray some of that PB Blaster on the rusty bits you heathen…
This is a dude who gave himself trench foot working on his cars….
I simply can’t believe you are bringing so much. PB Blaster is an obvious NO on a plane. They must have it there.
My recent trip to Malaysia, I brought Monkey but. Turns out, they have it there. I was shocked. It was at Ace Hardware (Yes, THAT Ace hardware), but hey had it.
We know who you are, but with all the money you are paying Hardigee, maybe you could have simply afforded to buy this whole kit down there, and left them to your buddy as a gift for his future wrenching. I mean, isn’t it all a tax write off.
Jason, are you even paying attention to what he is doing??? Don’t you guys have an accountant????
I’m sure you have landed by now, but otherwise good luck with the flight. Just lived that length flight, it sucked. Still recovering from the jet lag.
For some reason, I have this thought that you and Jason are now rich. Sorry.
PLEASE, a follow up on what you were actually allowed to bring.
Great tool kit! This takes me back to college in the 90’s. As an owner/driver of various shitboxes, and having friends/fellow dorm-rats who also drove shitboxes, I ended up as the resident mechanic of sorts, and my lone beat-up red toolbox was a must-have for any road-trip. I knew every tool in there quite well – it was quite similar to your set-up, including the trim remover, pick, and drum-brake tool. I didn’t have those sweet swivel ratchets, but did include: a C-clamp, a spark-plug cleaner/gapper tool, a good steel file, several random sized fuses, and a cheap multi-meter – it was nice to be able to diagnose a bad coil on the side of the road.
The one thing that I was surprised you didn’t have is a test-light of some sort. I carried two of those. One basic 12-volt bulb type for easy ground-checks, and one that showed 3, 6, 9, 12, and 15 volts. That second one was super handy – still use it and I bought it in ’93.
Nowadays I just call AAA if I run into problems, but there was something to be said for using that “universal” set to get rolling once again and complete the trip. Speaking of… doing something like this is one of my ideas of a dream vacation. Good luck and have a great time!
You should use some decent electrical tape. It is worth the extra couple bucks to pick up some 3M Super 33+. Much more flexible and sticks very well. Used it working in a car audio shop years ago. Refuse to use anything else.
Yep: if it’s not Super33, it’s ‘shit tape’
Whatever you’re missing I’m sure you can pick up at the local Hammerbarn.
Good call on the PB Blaster, that’s pretty much impossible to come by here. CRC and WD40 is plentiful if you use up all your PB
No multimeter?
Aren’t there tools in Australia that your buddies down under have? I mean, really, that’s a lot of gear to take to a foreign country and hope doesn’t get lost or stolen on the way. And I bet they are not gonna let you carry on that stuff.
I mean, no doubt you are relying on some other tools when you arrive, like torque wrenches and floor jacks and such. If you expect those to be available, then the rest of the tools you have packed also will be available.
Heck, it’s cheaper to reach out to your Aussie readers and borrow some tools in exchange for a night of wrenching and beer (provided by Mr Tracy, of course). I am sure since there are plenty of utes, they will have wrenches in Bald Eagle sizes.
I’m going to ring in here as a long-time road mechanic who used to have to travel out of state to wrench with a few helpful tips…
Ship your tools; it is WAY easier than trying to fly with them and WAY more secure than checking a tool bag. There are few things worse than getting a bag half full of tools with a big hole in it on the way to a job site.
If you do take it with you make sure it is a STURDY bag and well packed. I used to get surplus bags that had a zip AND snap closure; zippers can fail when tossed around or smashed. Anything sharp like screwdrivers and needle nose pliers needs a cap on it or it can puncture the bag unless it’s in a secure pocket.
Never take consumables or anything that can puncture, rupture, explode or ooze; you can buy any of that stuff you need when you get there and the mess is not worth it.
Know your metric/SAE crossover sizes and eliminate one of them; to this day my road tools run as a mixed set. I don’t have a 5/16, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 17mm or 19mm in either wrenches or sockets. I also only carry 6-point sockets, on the rare occasion I need a 12 I buy it on the road.
Carry quality tools; remote work means if you break it you are either boned or have a lot of wasted time going to buy a tool twice.